Understand campaigns more sensual more incisive

Emouvante. Women. skin. Since January 15, the face of the new Lancome woman, embodied by Juliette Binoche, Ambassador of the Rénergie range, and Laura Morante, incarnation of the absolute Premium range, appears in women's magazines. They promote two sophisticated product lines, intended to defeat the unavoidable ravages of time. Nothing more relevant in terms of marketing: anti-ageing before him a bright future, women concern of skin aging more and earlier. But this is not the essential: Lancôme campaign, signed by agency 133, Publicis Department and agency of reference, resolutely turn its back on the cultural revolution that it had initiated in the summer 2004.

Of course, the budget of the world leader of luxury cosmetics, property giant l ' Oréal, shook not on its bases. It continues to approach the tidy sum of 300 million dollars invested in 165 countries including China, where Lancôme holds 19 of market share, and in Russia, where the mark is in third place in its sector in seducing a demanding and sophisticated clientele. But then the visuals 2004 put forward a new heroine, gourmet and sensual, whose lips were the same color red glossy and shiny, smooth as vinyl than the Apple they wanted, the 2008 face to is considerably chastened. Best captured by the objective of the very media british photographer Nick Knight, Juliette Binoche and Laura Morante suggested both the same gracious, poetic, fulfilling... femininity that has always characterized the Lancôme woman. Especially, the rose, the famous rose-logo iconic founder Armand Petitjean, unavoidable heroine of advertising campaigns since 1935, ousted a moment in 2004, performs a fiery return.

In early summer 2004, Marc Dubrule, then CEO of Lancôme International and author of the strategic shift of the mark, going in the "New York Times" (): "we sometimes felt less advertising for our products for the rose and our consumers we give up that they felt no difference between our offer and our competitors." Too outdated, this rose, felt the team, was offered the paradoxical luxury of shut the mark. This brought Natacha Dzikowski, Executive Director of the Agency 133 in 2004, estimating abruptly: "He had to move on." Understand campaigns more sensual, more incisive. More likely in a Word. But the approach too promptly conducted long done fire: the heart of the brand target is does not in these girls "girly" so openly provocative. Lancôme is Dior or Saint Laurent, still less Gucci. And it sheds not with impunity the baby with the bath water. The lesson is promptly integrated the subsidiary of l ' Oréal.

Natural "worked".

To re-work the platform of Lancôme a year ago, Arthur Sa'dun, President of the Agency Publicis Paris, decided while "must return to the fundamentals of the mark and in particular the rose, which is a supplement of soul, a meaning very hard for this heritage brand." Because the real question remains: how emerge among the annual pub pages hundreds of "Vogue" . On his side, Emmanuelle Guillon, who succeeded Natacha Dzikowski branch of 133, considers, also, that Lancôme must "adopt a speech by leader, put forward the magic of femininity": "our approach is more readily to vibrant women of emotion as Laura Morante, that of perfect beauty, désincarnées."

But the approach is measured. "We come away Dove approach, nuance it." Lancôme sublime women, while Dove lies in the assertion of the right to imperfection. And, unlike Nivea, Lancôme offers a natural "work". "However, a common element is from all studies:"women want more truth in cosmetic speech,"she says. Even if sales attest, their heart beats harder for beauty "aspirationnelle" of the l ' Oréal for the imperfect beauty moods proposed model by Dove. Odile Roujol, Executive Director of Lancôme International, describes the strategy: "we want to magnify the grace of women, and the rose embodies perfectly strong and fragile, hand with his Rod long and fine, its flower full and fulfilling."

Rose tendency

Coincidence Or dreaded flair marketing At the beginning of the year 2008, never the rose was also trend, whether the new perfumes, care cults or other organic shopping... This week, "fashionistas", "It", the bible goes so far devoted six pages to the return of the "flower totem of beauty". Kate Moss has launched her own fragrance in London rose pile and spicy, while the new Chloé, sponsored by three ultra-pointues co-leader Chloë Sevigny, Clémence Poésy and Anja Rubik , offers a bouquet of roses "for the vintage spirit."

At the same time, and in an approach logic always at "magnifier" women, Lancôme chose to pay tribute to "beautiful" women (the adjective derived from the latin "magna facere" which is grow). After pioneering community sites (Second Life) or "videoshare" (YouTube, DailyMotion), the brand created in March 2008, a global platform of community network: beautiful-women, "with a vocation to exceptional women engaged in the life, defying their destiny." The Group thus highlights one of its models featured, the Ukrainian Daria Werbowy, who, in association with Lancôme, has created a collection of makeup limited-edition, of which a portion of sales will be paid to the association Brazil Centro Espacial Vik Muniz, helping the disadvantaged to integrate youth.

Lancôme campaign will be declined throughout the year 2008. While at school the mark should launch a new perfume whose name is stubbornly classified "secret defense". One indiscretion: Anne Hathaway, the pungent heroin of "Devil Wears Prada", will be the face, Air Agency assuming the advertising communication.