What justifies a price double that of the onion

The question we had scratched vaguely surface without ever us anxiety: Why use shallots instead of onion Escoffier or Ducasse say shallot. Slamming of heels; shallot. Aunt Charlotte used shallot; It respects the tradition. Our life has ceased to be simple since the Council of State, on 11 December last, urges the Government to cancel within two months the text of 1990 which was "false" more nearby shallots of the onion provide their critics at distance from the French market. If the "real" are packaged in small nets with a label "shallot of tradition", can make the difference. But if they are in bulk At the eye, the intruders very similar to the authentic. In any case, false that were made available to us the real defenders.

Until the arrival of Ambition and Matador, shallot planted by putting a bulb in the land in early spring. Three months later, it sweeps the patch that is developed by vegetative propagation and are left to dry and then again the following year. "Easy", says Uncle Claude, which contributes to décrotter our ignorance in gardening. 'Manual', counter French producers. What justifies a price double that of the onion.

Where their emotion when the Dutch seed managed to register in the great book European varieties as "shallots" of the things that is cast so can to mechanize. "It should not have", recognizes in substance the European justice. "But this is not a reason to prohibit."

Yet, the Council of State has done its best the only question that is sustainable: they have the same taste After the judges, the "real" are, "especially after cooking, more scented, more powerful and learner, long in the mouth, etc.". The towel around his neck and the deck on the topless mitonnant and tasting already imagined them. Unfortunately, the High Court relied to expert tasters whose life is not gay air: red light to hide the purple color a little more assertive of the real cut shallot. Forced to say what the intruder among three samples. A small blow to drink Not even. For "rinsing the mouth", they have the choice between bread without salt, a demi-pomme and water... Verdict: there is a difference. The tests mounted by Hervé Thys, the famous scientific gourmet of Inra, were less conclusive.

Pungent condiment

Our own experiments were more user-friendly: salads, mussels marinières, reduction in wine. Flood, the real, the false and even the onion give all a small biting the salad bar at base of lofty products (potatoes, lentils, etc.). Cooked, it is another matter. A recipe, pressure and temperature constant, dish containing false the shallots is enacted less noted unanimously. But there is always a guest to add: "I prefer those." False! The use of frozen, ready to use shallots, used some taste buds to attenuated taste. However with the onion and garlic, is part of "acre" condiments reminds us Bocuse. "Sharp, piercing", translated the Academy. And even: "Biting, injuring and reflecting a sense of bitterness." The art of the Cook will be in the game between the pleasant near the disagreeable to the pungency often supported by the acidity of the vinegar or wine and corrected by partially consubstantial sugar shallots and onion.

Then Onion or shallot Hybrids (we begin to see also for the trade of the "échalions"). Patrick Jeffroy, the head of the hotel of Carantec, is a land where the two co-occur: tradition shallots and onions of Roscoff. Summoned to decide, he hides first behind his grandmother. Classic. "With baked potatoes, going the shallot to meet small violence;" with the slowly baked pork roast onion gave a softer, sweeter taste. "Chief is happy his fish on a bed of onions of Roscoff bleached water and lightly sautéed in butter. Shallot would be too high. In contrast with its terrine, winter, it is a shallot Marmalade grenadine relieved by a bit of vinegar. "If I do it with onion I am obliged to add much more vinegar." A few recipes later, another general rule began to emerge: onion with its thicker layers and longer evaporation is suitable for slow cooking, shallot in more removed dishes. When we reached the new onions confit lemon Marmalade we cried grace. We too were hungry.