Venice is one of the preferred of our compatriotsA small such announcement can lend to smileSame calculation for the city of Roubaix 96Behind the scenes the agitation is mounted a notchThe most important is a change in the role of the StateThey have refined their marketing strategyIt would do better to shut up said Joachim PoEveryone realizes that we stifle she saidOne month to carry out such expertise seems short having not yet begun workHe has not given them faith in the futureThe restoration does not "blow of tobacco", fear to judge by the pace of openings in progress or announced. Are to monitor closely those of the gourmet restaurant of the Trianon Palace (opening in March) under the leadership of Gordon Ramsay, and the Palace, with a restaurant that it promises "trendy", but also that of the Barzingue, a new location at the gates of Paris, imagined by Thierry Faucher (the bone marrow, 15th), in a former garage.
The news turned to the 7th arrondissement, in full boiling. Just open the Cantinella (29, rue Surcouf), brave Neapolitan hostel run by the daughter of the famous Mimmo (restaurant Da Mimmo, 10th); Petit nice (10, rue Amélie), taken over by the former Chief and Director of Lapérouse and dressed in nine (the bouillabaisse is always map); The Sun (153, rue de Grenelle), gone to a new sign, the 153 (bof!), and a crew renewed with such as Jean-Captain Jacques Jouteux, briscard of pots made his return to Paris; and also the Bistrot de Robert (81, avenue Bosquet) became Italian ex-table Bistro-wine cellar (bottle to cave, with right of 7 euros the price cap), which the owner is other than that of the Lup (6th), the station (16th), and (17) Meating. Finally, the small Bordelais (ex - the ELMS), 22, rue Surcouf, Philippe pentecôte, former head of the Sofitel, Sèvres (15th), which will be the first case, will open on February 18. A restaurant that you hope much.
Among the tables of fresh date, the bitter, close to the covered market of Batignolles, particularly attracted our attention. Christophe Pelé, former Chief of the Royal Monceau, associated with two friends, which is vintage, opened a small restaurant-shop, kitchen open on the room (20 seats only). Pelé practical kitchen products, refined but without Fireworks. Its menu consists of a suite of small portions (nutritive), and in which some critics don't want to see that the minimalist aspect (products cut to the millimetre) and conceptual (significant use of the aigres-doux, bitter requires), there is evidence the technique of a strong leader, but also desire to distill on each plate of clarity and net flavours.
Land and sea
The soft miniportion of "foccacia", with bread, made every day by Guliano, second of Pelé, a native of Liguria, on the table before the menu takes form (always two entries, fish, meat and dessert), copper with at the outset. Squid squid ink and lemon condiment (beautiful mâche, perfect cooking); saint-jacques beetroot, capers from Pantelleria and lemon (in total symbiosis!) entries are winners, while the red mullet and his fried liver and lentils is a dish of brilliant Earth-Sea Alchemy. Then, the Flank Steak of veal Braised endives and Sichuan Pepper, and the pig milk crisp skin and shell in aigre-doux, specific and tasty, do not lend flank to criticism. Desserts, including some fun of acid and the bitter, are a bit lower. Searched cellar book and service to small care knowing remain discrete.
Ghislaine Arabian is back, but in a small misshapen restaurant, the small witches, where it is a little too much on each other. This does not foster reunion with a cook who returned with his Flemish roots and puts forward shrimp croquettes and fried parsley, cod guard beer fried onions and fresh spinach, waterzoi shells Saint-Jacques, and perfect glazed chicory. It is not esbaudi by the result, as the addition, in the evening, monte everything, with a little wine (too narrow choices), autour of 60 euros.
A first visit to Dali (Hotel Meurice) a few days after its opening revealed a few weaknesses in implementation. The pressed chicken to the pot in terrine, cream beaten to the horseradish was bland for lack of horseradish, beef miso soup was warm, and finally no rince-doigts had been planned with the delicious linguine in ink to dry and clams (served in their shells). Yannick Alleno has corrected the shot. Exquisite desserts from our first passage as the lapel to crystallized violet or fragrant Jasmine cores to say as a must. Malignant signed Starck décor, and addition palace.
